A successful failure

NASA used that phrase to describe  their Apollo 13 mission (the one on which the movie was based, the one with Tom Hanks). It is one of my favourite terms to call seemingly glass half empty situation a glass full one. 

That is exactly what our climbing yesterday was (minus the, you know, all the space stuff).

We (Monika, Diarmuid and I) were planning on  going to Glendalough, but ended up in Dalkey. The weather wasn’t really there for a long day in the valley. Since it was Monika’s first outing in a long time we were aiming to have a pleasent, casual day.

Dalkey at 9am isnt particularly nice. Its usually still wet from morning dew. The rock also tends to seep with many places in the shade.

No one at the horizon in Dalkey at 9am

This means however that few places are hit with the lazy sun (if there is any).

We decided on thr East Valley sector and Diarmuid set out to do the wall’s  classic – Fang 15m (HVS 5a).  Apparently it used yo be VS and only upgraded some time ago. Even on 2nd it Didn’t feel particulary VS’y. I blame the early morning and wet shoes.

Monika approaching the crux. Fang, HVS 5a

After that we quickly moved across to the West Valley that would be normally in the shade. Early morning was the time to go there. 

We settled on Binglestein 24m VS 4b. It was my lead so I racked and moved out. That route didn’t see much traffic lately. It was overgrown and dirty wiyh whatever grew out there over the winter.

I Didn’t get too far… Binglestein VS. 4b

Unfortunately after just few moves I cut my right hand over some razor sharp edge. In a matter of seconds my entire was covered in blood. I had to bail. I actually never had to abandon a trad route below or at VS…. I guess there is a first time for everything.

It was relatively small cut… Almost nothing.

After I got down and cleaned myself up i decided to call it a day. With upcoming big motorcye trip I didn’t want to risk any further injuries.

Diarmuid went back up if its safe to at leaat finish the route but it was so dirty that he just cleaned up the gear and that was it.

Gear rescue operation

 1.5 routes doesn’t seem like a lot of climbing but it was a sucesfull failure.  We all had a good time. The weather was reasonable and Diarmuid could make it to Croke Park for 3pm GAELIC FOOTBALL league final.

Author: mic1024

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