climbing Costa Blanca 2018

Costa Blanca – Day2 – Peñón de Ifach

Today’s blog will be written by a guest writer – our own Seamus, who will typing in words about our today’s adventure  climbing the south side of Peñón de Ifach.

It is a massive limestone outcrop emerging from the sea and linked to the shore by rock debris – one of the most iconic features of the coast.

Our today’s goal. Picture credit – Wikipedia. (as it’s very difficult to actually take a good photo of the thing from far away)

I’ll update the blog once the words are in.

Writer at work

Below is Seamus’ recollection of today’s events. All is 100% his words (I added pictures  and the comments):

Day two of our climbing trip and the plan was for the Peñón de Ifach in Calpe. The route selected was Via Valencianos 5c.

Our version of the route had some variations that made it around 6a A0.

Eight pitches of fairly polished fun. Our group was made up of Micheal, Peter an myself. Gerard was missing due to injury.

On the way. The walking is short from the marina car park. It’s best to leave the car there.


On the walk in we passed 4 locals who were heading to the same climb. So we had an audience for the start and felt a little under pressure to get moving. Micheal lead first pitch.
Mic running out P1. Definitely not grade 3.
The second offered a variation. The choice was between a 3+ and a 6a. Peter set off up the 6a which turned out to be extremely polished and we all ended up pulling on a piece of tat to get through the crux.
Peter at the Crux of P2.
The next pitch fell to me and as l watched the guys ahead of us struggle up using an etrier I began to think this 5c pitch might not be for me. The lads were very encouraging, which made me think they weren’t keen either. I set off up the well polished corner and decided bridging was the way to go and meant ditching my rucksack. I connected it to a nut and left it for Michael and Peter. What followed wasn’t pretty. Grunting and swearing I made it, though had to pull on some more tat.
Seamus powering through P3. Notice geo-cached backpack in the corner. Apparently aiding was left to minimum.
The rest of the pitches went ok.
Mic at start of P4. 30 meters of no gear (just odd threaded tat). Trad is rad!
There were some issues with very sore feet, angry gulls, hard boiled eggs and running two pitches into one.
Fantastic views of the Mediterranean see and the adjacent wall (that also runs some fantastic climbing lines)
Mic at the start of P6 (top of the ridge). Easy enough, but very scrappy. Hard work in the making…
As Mic was fixing gear on P6, the boys enjoyed some hard boiled eggs. Couldn’t ask for better setting!
Getting ready to do the final 2 pitches (run together behind Peter’s lead for most of it, right to the top).
Nevertheless we made it to the top and joined the tourists, more seagulls and hungry cats for lunch.
Peter enjoying view from the top (and definitely not peeing).

Satisfied we headed for a beer, a full debrief and a discussion on the best way to remove seagull crap from your clothes.


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